Grading device and method of grading and marking



Ap 1967 H. A. WELLIAMS GRADING-DEVICE'AND METHOD OF GRADING AND MARKING 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed Dec. 9,

5 2 mm 2 NJ E z m 9 nm HAROLD A. WILLIAMS ,9 (O Hlllllhlllla ATTORNEK April 4, 1967 A. WILLIAMS GRADING DEVICE AND METHOD OF GRADING AND MARKING Filed Dec. 9, 1965 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 V IX I ATTORNEY.

United States Patent Ofiiice Patented Apr. 4, 1967 3,311,980 GRADING DEVHCE AND METHOD OF GRADING AND MARKING Harold A. Williams, 840 Bronx River Road, Bronxville, N.Y. 10708 Filed Dec. 9, 1963. Ser. No. 329,023 1 Claim. (CI. 33-17) This invention relates generally to pattern grading, and is especially concerned with such grading as is performed in the garment industry, embracing both a novel apparatus for and method of grading.

It is one object of the present invention to provide a unique grading device of the type described, which enables a user to perform the grading operation directly from a master pattern, without the use of an intermediate graded pattern.

It is another object of the present invention to provide a method of grading wherein an operator may grade directly from a master pattern without the need for intermediate graded, or size patterns.

The instant invention contemplates the elimination of labor, materials and overhead requisite to the production, use and storage of graded or size patterns.

It is a further object of the present invention to provide a unique method and apparatus wherein marking paper, either a single sheet or in multiple layers having transfer material therebetween, may be directly marked over its entire surface in the desired and most advantageous arrangement of sizes and configurations, all without the need for intermediate graded or size patterns.

Still another object of the present invention resides in the provision of a grading machine or device which is extremely simple in construction and operation, durable and reliable throughout a long useful life, and which can be economically manufactured for sale at a reasonable price.

Other objects of the present invention will become ap parent upon reading the following specification and referring to the accompanying drawings, which form a material part of this disclosure.

The invention accordingly consists in the features of construction, combinations of elements, and arrangements of parts, which will be exemplified in the construction hereinafter described, and of which the scope will be indicated by the appended claim.

In the drawings:

FIGURE 1 is a top plan view of a grading machine of the pr sent invention in position on a cutting table.

FIGURE 2 is an elevational view of the device of FIG- URE 1, taken from one end of the table.

FIGURE 3 is a partial sectional elevational view taken generally along the line 3-3 of FIGURE 1.

FIGURE 4 is a partial sectional elevational view taken generally along the line 4-4 of FIGURE 1.

FIGURE 5 is a partial sectional elevational view taken generally along the line 55 of FIG. 1.

FIGURE 6 is a partial sectional elevational view taken generally along the line 6--6 of FIGURE 1.

Referring now more particularly to the drawings, and specifically to FIGURES 1 and 2 thereof, a cutting table is there generally designated 10, and seated on the cutting table is a grading device 11 of the present invention. The grading device is illustrated in position adjacent to one end 12 of the cutting table 10, extending laterally or transversely generally between the longitudinal sides 13 and 14 of the cutting table.

The machine or device 11 includes a generally rectangularly lower plate or bed 16 disposed in a plane parallel to and spaced above the upper surface of the table 10, extending generally transversely thereacross. Supporting the generally flat plate or bed 16 in its elevated position are a plurality of depending legs or supports located at respective corners of the bedplate. That is, the bedplate may include opposite ends or end edges 17 and 18, respectively adjacent to sides 13 and 14 of table 10, and may also include longitudinal sides or side edges 19 and 20, the former being adjacent to the table end 12 and the latter spaced inward thereof. Depending from corner regions of bedplate 16 adjacent to end 17 are legs 21 and 22, respectively proximate to bedplate sides 19 and 2d. Adjacent to bedplate end 18 and depending from corner regions thereof are legs or supports 23 and 24, respectively adjacent to bedplate sides 19 and 20. As best seen in FIGURE 2, the support means or legs 21-24 maintain the bedplate 16 in a transverse or lateral bridging relation horizontally spaced above the top of table 10.

In use, a sheet to be graded, such as a marker sheet 26 rests on the table 10, usually extending lengthwise thereof. The rectilinear arrangement of legs 21-24 is in parallelism with the rectangular-outline configuration of bedplate 16; and, the spacing between legs 21, 22 adjacent to bed end 17 and legs 23 and 24 adjacent to bed end 18 is such as to locate the respective pairs of legs beyond respective opposite sides of the sheet 26. The bedplate 16 is, therefore, supported by legs 21-24 in position astride the sheet 26 to be graded.

A generally flat, substantially rectangular intermediate plate 28 is superposed above and in a. plane parallel to bedplate 16. The intermediate plate 28 may be of a rectangular configuration similar to but smaller than that of bedplate 16, and may be slidably mounted on the latter, felt or other suitable friction-reducing means being employed, if desired.

In practice, the intermediate plate 28 is movable lengthwise relative to the nether bedplate 16 (laterally of the table 10), and suitable operating means are provided for effecting this motion of the intermediate plate. Such operating means may assume the form of upwardly facing toothed racks 30 extending longitudinally of and se cured to the intermediate plate adjacent to opposite ends thereof, which operate in conjunction with rotatable pinions or gears 31 carried by the bedplate. That is, upstanding pairs of pedestal journals 32 and 33 rotatably support shafts 34 which carry respective pinions 31. The shafts 34 may extend transversely across the intermediate plate 28, and may be provided with handwheels or knobs 35 for effecting rotation of gears 31, which in turn shifts intermediate plate 28 longitudinally along bedplate 16 (laterally of table 10).

Movably superposed horizontally above the intermediate plate 28, and in a plane parallel thereto, is a generally rectangular flat plate or carrier 37. Suitable friction-reduction means, such as felt or other, may be interposed between the intermediate plate 28 and carrier plate 37, if desired to facilitate relative movement therebetween.

In practice, carrier plate 37 is movable both with the plate 28 and transversely relative to the intermediate plate 23 (longitudinally of the table 10). Suitable operating means may be provided for effecting relative carrierplate movement, such as a pair of upwardly facing toothed racks 38 fixed to the carrier plate and extending transversely thereof. The carrier plate may be provided with a plurality of through openings or cutouts 39 having upstanding therethrough respective pedestal journals 40 mounted on the intermediate plate 28. A shaft 41 is totatably mounted by the pedestals 40 and carries pinions or gears 42 in respective engagement with racks 38. Suitable handwheels or knobs 43 may be keyed to the shaft 41 to facilitate manual rotation of the latter and thereby effect movement of carrier plate 37 relative to intermediate plate 28, longitudinally of table 10.

Carried by the carrier plate .37, on the inward side thereof, is an extension 45, which may be integral with the carrier plate, as illustrated. The extension 45 may project beyond opposite ends of the carrier plate for increased length, if desired, and is provided with series of upstanding pins or screws 46 arranged in rows extending substantially the entire length of the extension 45. The screws or pins 46 provide locating means for a plurality of arms 47 adapted to be engaged over selective screws and held thereon by nuts or other suitable securing means 48. The arms 47 provide holding means for a master pattern, as will appear presently. As best seen in FIGURES 1 and 4, the arms 47 may be fabricated of elongate strips, each including an inner end portion 49 adapted to be secured fast in facing engagement with the upper surface of extension 45, an intermediate portion 50 extending obliquely downwardly toward the sheet, and a distal end portion 51 resting substantially fiat on the sheet or marker 26.

In use, all of the component parts of the master pattern are laid out in proper grain alignment on a marker which may be either a length of cloth, or a paper sheet which is ruled off to the width of the cloth to be used. The patterns are laid out in the most economical arrangement. The arms 47 serve to hold a master size pattern resting on the sheet 26, say by detachably securing the arm portions 51 to the upper surface of a master pattern, as by a piece of Scotch tape. It should be added here that a capable technician can very accurately judge from the marker of this master size just how to proceed to deploy his master patterns for the next size and all subsequent sizes. The master pattern may then be moved as required for grading and marking by manipulation of the hand wheels 35 to effect pattern movement laterally of the sheet 26, and by manipulation of hand wheels 43 to effect pattern movement longitudinally of the sheet 26. Suitable scales, such as at 28a and 37a may be associated with movement of the intermediate plate 28 and carrier plate 37, respectively.

By marking is meant the tracing of the pattern onto a specific cloth or paper marker to be used as a die or stencil for cutting.

The edges of the master pattern parts are traced over as each grading move is made with a pen, pencil or tailors chalk. Notches, drill holes to be made and the proper size is noted for each part. When it is desired to grade more than one pattern at a particular longitudinal location on the sheet or marker 26, it is only necessary to remove the nuts 48, upwardly withdraw the arms 47, after first releasing them from the master pattern, and replace the arms on other pins 46 to which the next adjacent master pattern may be secured. Upon completion of all grading at one longitudinal location of sheet 26, the entire device 11 may be shifted longitudinally of the table 10 without adversely affecting the marker or sheet 26, the supports or legs 2124 being located outward of the sheet. Further, proper alignment of the device 11 laterally of the sheet 26 at each successive longitudinal location thereof may be obtained by sighting along pairs of legs 21 and 23, or 22 and 24, while noting the markings provided on conventional marker paper 26. Repeated grading may then be performed at each successive longitudinal sheet location, as required.

It will be understood that the technician deploys the various parts of the pattern allowing for additional width and length or contracting spaces for a smaller size than the master, as the case may be.

It can be noted here that should the master pattern for any given style be awkward to deploy economically as a single size, then the next size to it can be graded in the standard manner and thus two master patterns of different sizes can be used together with the grading device to make two additional sizes as they are marked. And then these two master patterns can be used to make as many additional sizes in pairs as are sold.

From the foregoing, it is seen that the present invention provides a pattern-grading method and apparatus which fully accomplishes its intended objects and is well adapted to meet practical conditions of manufacture and use.

Although the present invention has been described in some detail by way of illustration and example for purposes of clarity of understanding, it is understood that certain changes and modifications may be made within the spirit of the invention.

What is claimed is:

The method of grading and marking garment patterns directly from master patterns without the intermediary of size patterns, which method comprises the steps of prepositioning upon a marker sheet all of the component parts of a master pattern in proper grain alignment, supporting a grading machine laterally astride and independently of the marker sheet which is to be used as a die, grading and marking at one longitudinal location of said marker sheet all of said component parts lying within the lateral dimensions of said marker sheet, then effecting movement of said grading machine longitudinally of said marker sheet and grading at this other longitudinal location all of the component parts within that lateral dimension of the marker sheet, and repeating these steps until every one of said component parts is graded and marked.

References Cited by the Examiner UNITED STATES PATENTS 2,711,588 6/1955 Ingram 33-17 2,973,688 3/1961 Bilibok 3311 3,156,046 11/1964 Potter 33-17 X LEONARD FORMAN, Primary Examiner.

LLOYD ANDERSON, Assistant Examiner. 

